A Day in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The Town Hall (Hôtel De Ville) in the town of Châteauneuf-Du-Pape.
I have visited the Rhône Wine region on numerous occasions, but this time in particular was in June of 2024. My family and I were staying in a charming house rental in Ménerbes, nestled in the heart of the Luberon. One sunny day, we decided to make the drive to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a region famed for its wine, to explore and discover some new bottles.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is actually part of Provence, more specifically in the Vaucluse department. The wines produced in this appelation d’origine contrôlée (AOC - more on this in another blog post!) are considered part of the Rhône wine region, named after the mighty Rhône River. The drive from the Luberon took us about an hour along the scenic D900, a departmental road in France, which is often a quieter, more local route. Think of it as a slower, more winding path—lots of rotaries and mostly one lane in each direction.
During this trip, something unexpected happened: all of our phones stopped working for several days! At first, it was a bit unnerving, but we later learned that it was due to an outage between US carriers and international networks. It actually turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Without maps or GPS, we roamed around Châteauneuf-du-Pape, allowing ourselves to slow down and wander aimlessly, taking in the village and the beautiful landscapes without any pressure. It was a truly refreshing experience—one that’s hard to come by in today’s digital world.
Our first stop was Vinadea Maisons des Vins, a fantastic wine shop in the heart of the town. We tasted some exceptional wines and picked up a few bottles we’ll be saving for a special occasion. From there, we headed to Les Vergers des Papes for lunch. Situated high in the hills with breathtaking views of the Rhône valley, this restaurant offered not only a spectacular setting but also exceptional food. The meal was an unforgettable mix of flavors, perfectly complemented by the scenic beauty around us.
After lunch, we made our way to Best Vintage Wine Shop. We sampled a few more wines and stumbled upon an intriguing Côtes du Jura that Stéphane suggested we open 24 hours before drinking!
Our final stop of the day was La Maison Ogier, a lovely wine shop offering selections from several vineyards. We picked up a few bottles of Clos L’Oratoire du Pape, one of my favorite labels. Both their red and white wines are absolutely divine, and I couldn’t resist bringing some home.
With our market finds from the morning in Goult and the wine we discovered during our day in the Rhône, we were ready to cook a delicious dinner at home and reflect on a day of wonderful exploration.